Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Uluru at Sunset and Sunrise
So... I realize it's been almost two weeks since I last wrote. I wouldn't even be writing right now if it were not for free internet in the middle of nowhere. Well... not exactly the middle of nowhere. We're in a very small town by the name of Halls Gap. It is a gateway to the Grampians and that is why we are here, we are just going to be hanging out and hiking for a few days. But I'll go back to what has happened in the last bit. As you know, we went on a two day bus tour to get to Alice Springs. The first day of the bus trip was miserable. It was on a twenty-one seater bus, fully booked, and the air conditioning was not really working. We drove 800 km that day. But there was a definite plus, the bus driver had good taste in music. So, although I was devastated when my MP3 player died half-an-hour into the bus ride, it was bearable. Driving through the desert which, by the way, looks the same in the first ten minutes as it does six hours in, feels dry. I found myself constantly worrying if the bus was going to break down. Honestly, beyond Port Augusta, there was very little that would be of real assistance upon engine failure. When we finally got to Coober Pedy, I was horrified when I was informed that the temperature was 48C! It was cooling off because it was seven at night, but it was really hot. The next day was much better. Upon arriving to Alice Springs, we realized a few things. There were a lot of flies. Seriously, masses. People we wearing fly net to keep them from going in there mouths, ears, eyes, and noses. Life without a fly net is terrible, but I decided that I would be strong (more like I submitted to personal torture). Something in my head told me that if I didn't wear a fly net or repellent, I was somehow above the flies, I was becoming a stronger person. I really don't know if I've changed, but I'd like to think the flies now try to avoid me because they sense my powerfulness (I'm sure you're all rolling your eyes by now.). Anyways, we also realized that our hostel was terrible. It was really dirty, connected to a bar, and you had to put a deposit down for any cookware. Plates, cutlery, pots, pans... you name it and you have to pay for it. I can understand, but it just felt ridiculous. I was exhausted and it was late, so my first meal in Northern Territory was bread dipped in nutella and peanut butter right from the jar. Yum. Not bad, but very messy and slightly embarrassing. We got up at 5:00 the next morning to get ready for our next tour. It was also a twenty-one seater bus, but it felt okay. Our driver/tour guide was awesome! She was only twenty-four and so she was a lot of fun to talk to and she actually had energy (which is a change from most of our bus drivers). The first day, we drove quite a bit, making it to Kings Canyon and doing a hike there. It was beautiful. Near the end of our hike, we got to go swimming in a pool in the "Garden of Eden". It felt amazing. Then we drove to our campsite. On the way there, we had to stop to collect firewood. No one was really doing much, so Bretton and I set out to collect as much wood as we could. We got a few big pieces, then ventured out further to get some more. Well, we picked the hugest dead tree we could find and a large branch as well, and started to carry them back. They were too heavy. We were out quite a ways, so we had to drag them all of the way back. When we got back, people looked at us really funny. We loaded the tree and branch onto the back. I realized that I was covered in sweat and dirt and there were flies buzzing all around me. Honestly, sometimes the flies got so bad I felt like I was decaying, they just won't go away! What are they looking for? I only brought the shorts and shirt I was wearing for clothes on this trip, so getting them completely dirty on the first day had not been in my original plan, but you deal with it. Still on the way to our campsite, the sun setting, we see the silhouette of a large rock. Everyone saw it. We all thought it was Uluru and got all excited. Then we found out that it was another rock, our guide called it "Fooluru". It is not really mentioned anywhere, but we were told that the Aboriginals believe to be a cursed place. I find those stories really interesting. Once we set up camp, it was dark, but there was a full moon, so no lights were necessary. After eating supper, we slept. It didn't really feel like it, we were awoken at 5:00 the next morning, we had to drive early into the national park. We drove in and arrived at Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). We did short hike around them, it was really pretty. Then we drove to the Cultural Centre and learned about the formation of the park and Aboriginal beliefs. There was a book there where all the letters people had sent to the centre were placed. They were all confessions on taking rocks or sand from the park. People had realized it was wrong and sent it back. Some people went into detail, listing the bad things that have happened to them since they took the rocks. One story was just a list of health problems. Many of the people felt terrible and just wanted things to go back to normal, it was really interesting. A main theme in the centre is on Uluru (Ayers Rock). Uluru is a very spiritual place to the Aboriginals. They ask that you do not climb the rock. Most people do a base walk around Uluru, which is what we did later. But many seek out to climb it. To me, you look at the past of the Aboriginals and white men. Just like in Canada, the Aboriginals here were oppressed. Many people were killed and there were also many attempts at assimilation. Finally, years later, the Aboriginals have their land back (the national park that we were in). I would not have blamed them if they kept it to themselves and isolated themselves from the rest of Australia. But no, they have decided to work with the government and the park system to allow many people to see Uluru and Kata Tjuta. They want us to come and to learn about their culture. To share in the beauty of the park. The fact that they even allow us to come into their land after everything that has happened is enough reason for me to not climb the rock, to follow their wishes. To climb the rock would be extremely disrespectful to the Aboriginals. Many people die every year attempting it. To my relief, the climb was closed at the time we were there. That night, we watched the sunset at Uluru and then went back to camp. At 4 AM, we were up again to watch the sunrise. It was gorgeous. I don't believe I'm saying this, but it was actually really cold. The wind was blowing and the air was cool. Everyone was wearing scarves and sweaters, but I just wore my shorts and t-shirt. I was freezing, but something about me being Canadian and being in the desert in Australia made me tough it out. That morning, we did a walk around the base of Uluru. We got to see some Aboriginal paintings and different ceremonial places. It was really cool. Something about being there, it was so big! I don't know how to describe it, it is so many people's dream to visit Uluru before they die. It was never really a goal of mine, but being there, I felt completely humbled. Like I didn't deserve to be there. I know Uluru is a big rock, but it is not just that. You would have to visit and it is personal, but it is so much more. It meant a lot to me. That day, we drove back to Alice Springs. It felt good to be back. We were so exhausted, but we went out for supper with our tour group and it was a lot of fun. We made some good friends in that group. Over the next couple of days, we hung out. There were so many Aboriginal art galleries there, it was beautiful. I definitely spent too much money. Then we took a free didgeridoo lesson. I loved it. It is so different than anything I have ever done before, yet very similar. After the half hour lesson, Bretton and I stayed for an hour longer to practice, we were quite into it. A few days later, it was time to go back to Adelaide. I'm not going to say I enjoyed it, but the twenty-hour bus ride was not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. It actually went by pretty fast. We spent a couple days hanging out in Adelaide. Sorting out scholarships. Writing essays on vacation feels completely wrong, but I just have to suck it up and do it. Now we're in Halls Gap. I didn't even expect to be here. We've been struggling to find bus companies that drive along the Great Ocean Road, so we had to book the first thing we found. We took the bus all day today to get to a place called Stawell. I think Aussies are against pronouncing consonants, because they pronounce everything weird. Stawell is not pronounced like it is spelled. You pronounce it "Sta-el". Whatever. When we got there, we looked into getting a bus to Halls Gap. We really didn't want to spend a night in Stawell, it was small and there were no hostels, which would have meant an expensive hotel. But we were able to catch a bus with just enough time to run to the grocery store to stock up. As usual, I bought way too much. When I don't know when I can next buy food, I just panic and buy anything I can get my hands on. Turns out the bus was a school bus, so we got to ride here with a bunch of fourteen year olds. What a great age. Upon arrival, we were welcomed to our hostel by the owner. He showed us around and helped us out with everything! He was so nice! I asked him if he knew if there were any pianos nearby. Expecting a "no", I was surprised when he phoned his friend up who owns a local restaurant/bar. Apparently it is totally okay for me to play, even when customers are there. I went into town to find it (on the hostels' free bikes) and went to the wrong one. But there was a baby grand piano there and the lady told me that I can come back tomorrow and play. For a small place, things are really working out. I am truly happy right now. We're hiking to the Pinnacles tomorrow, I'm hoping that they are not the same as the ones in Thames, but we'll see. But things are good right now. I am so happy!
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